What Experts Want You To Know About Putting CBD On Your Skin

The argument could be made that CBD has effectively replaced THC as the most famous three-letter acronym associated with cannabis at the moment. But let’s not get the two mixed up. CBD is short for cannabidiol, one of the compounds found in cannabis plants. Hemp and marijuana both belong to the cannabis plant family, and while they have their differences (more on that later!), CBD can be derived from either. The other compound found in cannabis plants is THC. THC gets you high, but CBD doesn't. Not even close.

With all that said, you probably don’t need another article touting the purported benefits of CBD oil for your skin (though, sure, I’ll cover the basics). Instead, here's the stuff about CBD that no one else is telling you — from sourcing to social impact to financial practices — straight from industry insiders. If you're thinking of working CBD into your beauty routine, read this first.

CBD Basics

Although more research needs to be done around how CBD works and its ability to manage specific issues (like anxiety and insomnia, for instance), there are a few key points many industry experts seem to agree on. “CBD acts as an analgesic and anti-inflammatory,” Cindy Capobianco, the co-founder and president of CBD company Lord Jones, tells TZR. “CBD has been used for centuries to successfully relieve pain and treat skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, and rosacea — even sunburn and bug bites — when used topically.” Studies suggest that, when ingested, those same properties can have a slightly different effect. “It has the additional benefits of mood stabilization, relief from anxiety, and promoting a calm sense of well-being,” Capobianco says.

How, exactly, does it do this? Experts say that comes down to the endocannabinoid system, or ECS. “The ECS is a network of receptors found throughout every mammal,” a representative from Dosist, a company known for its CBD dose pens, tells TZR. “This system is responsible for maintaining the body’s homeostasis, or balance, and helps regulate everything from sleep, to pain, to appetite, to immune function, to stress.” Studies seem to indicate that the body is pretty much primed to thrive on CBD — it naturally produces endocannabinoids, and CBD is a related phytocannabinoid. Both apparently affect the ECS in similar ways. “It’s often described as a lock and key system, where the cannabinoid is the key ‘unlocking’ a receptor, causing a series of reactions throughout the body,” Dosist explains. There's evidence to suggest this can lead to less anxiety, better sleep, reduced inflammation, calm skin, et al.

“Some studies have shown that topical CBD can also help reduce oil production in addition to reducing inflammation in the skin, which are two main players in the generation of acne,” Dr. Jennifer Vickers, a dermatologist with Sanova Dermatology in Texas, tells TZR, adding that the anti-inflammatory effects of CBD oil on the skin can help calm and reduce redness, too. “It also has antioxidant and regenerative qualities to help offset damage from the sun, pollution, and aging.” Basically, it seems everyone’s complexion can stand to benefit from an application of cannabidiol.

CBD maintains these properties whether it’s sourced from hemp (scientific name: cannabis sativa) or marijuana (scientific name: cannabis sativa indica).

CBD Properties

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When it comes to skin care, you’re more likely to find hemp-derived CBD than marijuana-derived CBD in all those #shelfie-worthy bottles, for one main reason: legality. “It’s not that the compound is different when it comes from one plant or the other — it’s just the amount of CBD versus THC that makes a difference,” Dr. Josh Axe, the founder of Ancient Nutrition, tells TZR. “CBD from hemp contains 0.3% THC or less [the legal allowance], while CBD from marijuana can contain 5% to 35% THC.” Hemp-derived CBD is legal in all 50 states thanks to the 2018 Farm Bill, but THC is only fully legal in 19 states (as of publishing).

This is also where some confusion between hemp seed oil and hemp-derived CBD comes into play. “Comparing hemp seed oil and hemp-derived CBD is like comparing potatoes with vodka,” Dr. Ben Talei, a plastic surgeon and founder of AuraSilk skin care, tells TZR. In other words: They come from the same plant but have vastly different properties.

"Products with CBD have more significant regenerative, anti-aging, and anti-inflammatory effects than those products made with hemp oil."

“Hemp seed oil is produced by cold-pressing the seeds of the cannabis plant,” Vickers says. “Products with hemp seed oil are rich in several vitamins, as well as Omega fatty acids.” It's nice for your skin — Omegas have a plumping, hydrating effect — but hemp seed oil doesn’t contain CBD. (Plenty of beauty brands would love for you to think it does, though. This practice is referred to as “weed-washing,” or making it seem as if there’s CBD in a product, when really, it's just hemp seed oil.)

“On the other hand, CBD is an extract from the leaves, flowers, and stalks of the cannabis plant,” Vickers says. “Products with CBD have more significant regenerative, anti-aging, and anti-inflammatory effects than those products made with hemp oil.” This is known as “the entourage effect,” according to Axe: The different parts of the plant (leaves, flowers, stalks) are thought to work together in a compounding manner, amplifying the overall benefits.

It should be noted that “the right amount of potency” is kind of a guessing game at this point. “[There’s limited] information about dosing, particularly in beauty products,” Vickers says. “This would be difficult to characterize and would require research that isn't being done.” But seeing as topical CBD isn’t something you can overdose on (“It has very few risks,” per Vickers), there’s no need to start small. Beboe Therapies' High-Potency CBD Serum is one of the strongest offerings on the market, with 300 milligrams of hemp-derived, full spectrum CBD per ounce.

To recap: Hemp seed oil contains no CBD. Hemp-derived CBD contains no THC. CBD skin care products are non-psychoactive and will not get you high. Which begs the question: Why are beauty brands marketing them as if they will?

CBD Social Impact

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It can’t be ignored that the people cashing in on the controversy are largely white, largely male, and largely not doing anything to actually change the perception of marijuana usage, which is inextricably tied to race. President Richard Nixon's War on Drugs in the 1960s specifically targeted communities of color. John Ehrlichman, Nixon’s chief domestic advisor, later claimed to Harper’s magazine: “The Nixon White House ... had two enemies: The antiwar left and Black people. We knew we couldn’t make it illegal to be either against the war or Black, but by getting the public to associate the hippies with marijuana and Blacks with heroin, and then criminalizing both heavily, we could disrupt those communities. We could arrest their leaders, raid their homes, break up their meetings, and vilify them night after night on the evening news. Did we know we were lying about the drugs? Of course we did.”

That’s heavy stuff, but it is necessary to note in any discussion of CBD — especially considering weed-related charges still land people in jail today, a disproportionate number of whom are people of color. “Despite roughly equal usage rates, Blacks are 3.73 times more likely than whites to be arrested for marijuana,” the American Civil Liberties Union reports.

"Saying you’re ‘elevating cannabis’ feels a bit out of touch. For many people, cannabis has already been a special and ‘elevated’ plant, even without the rose gold smokeware and fancy packaging."

The statistics are discouraging at best, which heavily contributes to the fact that very few cannabis businesses are Black-owned or founded. (A 2017 report put the number at less than 5%.) Nevertheless, more and more Black-owned CBD companies are popping up. CBD brand Brown Girl Jane was founded by Malaika Jones, who was named one of the most powerful women of 2020 by Entrepreneur Magazine. Jones turned to holistic health after suffering spinal nerve damage, and Brown Girl Jane was born. Inclusivity is a fundamental aspect of the brand: “As women of color, we are especially aware of the disastrous impact that over-criminalization of the cannabis plant has had on our communities,” the Brown Girl Jane’s leadership writes in their mission statement. “We remain acutely aware that it is our responsibility to include those who have been disproportionately targeted by unfair criminal legislation, prevented from accessing the health benefits of this plant, and excluded from the increasing economic opportunities that have been created through the legalization of CBD … It is our goal to support, represent, and diversify this growing industry in a way that accurately reflects ourselves and our sisters.” Brown Girl Jane is committed to donating a portion of their CBD product sales to organizations like Black Women’s Health Imperative.

Holland’s social justice work stands out in a sea of — let’s be honest — lukewarm attempts at activism. The majority of the brands I spoke to for this story didn’t have much to say about tackling the stigma that surrounds cannabis, save for airy claims like “elevated branding” and “CBD education.” “Saying you’re ‘elevating cannabis’ feels a bit out of touch,” Holland says. “For many people, cannabis has already been a special and ‘elevated’ plant, even without the rose gold smokeware and fancy packaging.”

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Clearly, there’s still a lot to learn about CBD — research has only scratched the surface of its power, and the cannabis industry is evolving every day — but judging by my inbox, the trend is one that's bound to stick around awhile.